1972 c10 doing 99 LS1 Swap

Hello. This is my first time posting on this forum site. I have been viewing on here for quite some time though. Here is the deal:

I got a 1972 Chevy 10 with a 350 in it. I'm putting a 99' LS1 one out of a Camaro in it.  I got the engine (it was a complete drop out assembly). I got the motor mounts (GEN III from Early Classic Enterprises). I got a new Fuel tank to mount under the bed (to make it have enough room to fit an in-tank fuel pump). I know that I am going to have to get the driveshaft shortened. I got a shop up the road that is going to be doing all of the electrical work for me (So I don't have to deal with all of the electrical demons, lol). My questions are this....


Will I need a different crossmember for the trans?? I am putting a 6 speed manual in it.

Will I need the rear end to be modded up, or will it be fine?

How do I go about making it power steering? Will I need to get a new steering rack??

How do I make the clutch work? Do I need to get a hydraulic clutch assembly? Where can the Slave cylinder be mounted to make it work?

Basically what I'm asking (besides all the obvious things [radiator, driveshaft, electrical, etc.), what all do I need to do to make this work? You answers are greatly appreciated. Thank you.  

Yes, yes, and yes!
The 67-72 frames are tranny specific. I run the T5 and have not tranny crossmember. The bellhousing has supports for the rear of the engine. Auto tranny frames use the tranny crossmember to support the rear of the engine. You can fab one or modify one for the T56 tranny.
Your 12 bolt truck rear end will handle all the horsepower you have. You may want to swap to a 3.73 or 3.90 posi rear end gears with that overdrive tranny.
Just bolt on a power steering gearbox and fab the hoses to your power steering pump. You may want to strengthen the frame in that area.

Use the hydraulic slave that comes with the LS1 and T56 combo. Find a way to use their clutch pedal and master cylinder and connect the hoses.
This should be enough to get you started and busy for a while.
Keep us posted as to your progress so we can all enjoy your ride.  
68 chop  top 327 5 speed Stereo and AC. A real hot rod has a clutch. Anyone can modify it BUT it takes a real man to chop one up. See my truck in Reader's Ride and vote on it!

Thank you for your answer. That is pretty much what I expected. So, I will not need a crossmember with the 6 speed that comes with the Ls1? I was planning on running 3.90's or 4.11's in the rear anyway. I just wanted to know how strong the rear was. The last thing that I wanted to do would be to make "Spider Gear Soup". lol. Do you have any suggestions for me as far as the clutch is concerned??? Pictures would be greatly appreciated. You have a 5 speed T5.....you running a LS1?? What did you do to make the clutch work? Any problems that you ran into that you could warn me of in advance so I don't have the scratch my head for 3 weeks trying to figure out how to solve it? I'm trying to have this thing done by mid summer if possible. Please let me know. Thank you very much.  

My engine is old school. 327 vintage 1968 with 96 model vortec heads. The bell housing is from any 55 to 86 model. It will have two motor mounts on it where it sits on the frame. Typical clutch pedal to Z-bar to throw out arm and throw out bearing. I run a  clutch package from a 81 Z-28 Camaro from Auto Zone. Lifetime warranty!
Your 12 bolt rear end with 3.90 or 4.11 will be sweet. Make sure you run a posi. I run the T/A cover for added strength.
Yes, I would run the crossmember! That 6 speed is very heavy. Get the crossmember from the LS1 and try to adapt it to fit your frame. Extra support is always better.  
68 chop  top 327 5 speed Stereo and AC. A real hot rod has a clutch. Anyone can modify it BUT it takes a real man to chop one up. See my truck in Reader's Ride and vote on it!

I was planning on running a crossmember regardless. I had a fear of the tranny torquing over and breaking the bellhousing.  

Okay. I know I have not been on here in awhile. I have been working on the truck. I got a question for you all.... I put the LS1 in the truck.. Alternator got in the way. Would not sit correctly without removing. Does anyone sell an alt relocation bracket for this problem? Secondly, I went to test fit the transmission. NO where close to even thinking about fitting. The top of the trans hits the floor boards of the cab. When it hits, the trans still needs to go up about 8 inches. Am I missing something or do I need to cut away from the cab? Please advise. Thank you. I will be posting pics as soon as I can find my digital camera. Thank you.  

Welcome to the forums aliveandcare and I hope 68_chop_top answered your question.  

Previously I stated that I needed help with the trans and crossmember. Well, today I got it sorted out. I had to cut the low trans hump out from the cab and the T56 slip right up there for me. I used the crossmember that help up the original trans ( just drilled new holes). So, I got that out of the way. And I think I really lucked up on another part also. I thought for sure that I would have to get the drive shaft either shortened or lengthend. After I put the trans in and centered it, the original drive shaft slid into the tail ( that really shocked me) and was perfect length. That was absolutley amazing. Now, I am going to be working on the clutch tomorrow. Does anybody have any advice for making the slave cylinder linkage hook up the the stock pedals on the truck??? Please someone help me with this. This is not going to be easy and I could really use advice. Thank you. I will post pics tomorrow of progress thus far. Thank you very much.  

I'm new here, don't have anything but 2 fenders & a door OEM for a 1978 shop truck that I never installed.  

If you still need a bracket to relocate the alt I have this available

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__ls1-engine-swap-conversion-bracket-alt-relocation_W0QQitemZ110349282256QQadiZ2865QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item110349282256&_trksid=p4506.c0.m245&_trkparms=72%3A543%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Thanks
Rocky  

hi i am new at this thing, and the engine and tranny combo your doing to your truck i thought it was imposable to do, actually yesterday o by the way i have a 69 c20, i have been trying to reaserch for something like that mostly pics but never seen something useful i was wondering if you can tell me all the parts, custom stuffs, and most importantly if you have the budget of something like this, because i am just 20 and money is the biggest issue, and i now that those engines get very good milage and with gas right now that is something to think about, well thanks for your time, and good look with that girl hope to see a picture soone of it.  

This swap is not impossible but does take work to get it done. Grants series on Fun With Fuel Injection takes a wrecked LS1 and shows what mods will have to be done to get it to work. Start going though our tech section to research his C10 and here is the url for the final part of that install. http://www.classictrucks.com/tech/0909clt_chevy_ls_engine_install_finalle/index.html  

o thanks alot mpayne i'll give it a read at that, to see whats goes on. thanks alot for that information.  

Your welcome, Grant has been slaving on that truck forever but finally it runs. If you want to see the engine in action check out this YouTube clip of the '72 C-10.  

that is a nice video, is one thing just looking it but once you hear it everything changes nice truck, thanks again.