I have been looking all over the net for any type of kit that gives me the motor mounts needed to complete a 350 swap into my truck. So far I can only find the kit for a 63.

Does anyone know if there is a kit out there for the 1960 truck, or am I going to have to make my own to get this to work?

Thanks for any help you guys might have.  

Can't help you with a kit, but I can tell you what I used to drop a 402 in my 62.
73 1/2ton 6cylinder frame mounts.  Lets you use throughbolt motor mounts.
Easy enough to mount everything loosely to the engine, then set it all down into the frame.  Mark the upper holes.  Use a hammer to form the lower bolt tab to the crossmember contour.  Mark the lower bolt holes.  Remove the mounts & motor, drill the holes, and install the frame mounts.  All downhill from there.
The lower hole is toward the front of the crossmember.  don't remember if that means they are installed the same as the donor truck, or swapped side to side.  

Check with LMC. They had V8 in 60 trucks. 283 I think.  

Thanks curtis you beat me to the LMC punch, but I guess you can when your posting at 5:45am PST.  

Thanks guys. So the LMC route (I already have a book on the way from them) might give me a motor mount I can use with the current frame? That would be great.

I also like the idea of using the mounts from a different truck.

The motor is going to be pulled from a Blazer (not sure the year, but I think a early 70s). I am able to take ANYTHING I want off the Blazer as it will be going to the junk yard when I am done with it. So I think I might be able to rip the mounts out of that, maybe?

Thanks again for the advise on this.

John  

If the Blazer is a 4x4, as most were, you are out of luck.  The mounts are different.  

I forgot to mention the bellhousing issue.  The 1960 6-cylinder bellhousing is different from the smallblock pattern.  
If you have the hydraulic clutch, you will need a bellhousing from a 60-62 V-8 truck.  It has the clutch slave cylinder mount, and the correct frame mounts.  

Thanks PackRat.
My plan is to use a different trans as well. The motor that I am going to use has a th350 with it as well, but I think I am going to pull that and run a 700R4.

Now I have been told it would be less work, and better in the long run, to take a front clip from a 78-80 camaro and weld it into the front of the truck. I was told it would give me all the motor mounts, PS rack, Disc brakes, the lower front ride height (planning on air bags for the truck)... My understanding is that I can just cut the front clip from the car, cut the old one from the truck, and start welding and fabing what ever needs to be made to connect it.

I hope that is about right.

John  

I wish clipping was that easy.  Get the whole front sub from the donor car, then find someone that has done it to tell you what you need to cut/paste.  

No disrespect intended, but measure everything twice before you cut, and three times before welding.  The smallest miscalculation can cause big problems regarding hadling, wheel track, and body fitment. Nothing ruins a nice project like having to scrap it and start over because of a butchered, or crooked, subframe.

FYI, the Camaro hubs are a smaller bolt pattern than pickups.  Something to consider when trying to match the rear end.  

Early bird gets the wrome  

I realy think you should save a lot of work and get a 73-87 1/2 ton front crosmember, witch will bolt nright in place of your front crosmember. It will already have V8 mounts. power stearing, Disc. brakes,and can be air baged. CPP sells the bracket the mount the stearing sector to your frame. Your frame will be 1 inch shorter in hight but it will still bolt in. Brothers or CPP also has a tub crosmember for the trans. You can also use the rear end out of the 73-87 half ton, a lot were 12 bolt.  

Thanks guys. From all of my reading around, it seems that the cross member swap would be a lot less work.

The guy that told me to do the front clip is someone that I have a lot of trust in. His reason for the clip over the cross member is mainly the ride height of the truck. I want it low and on bags. He said it would be better in the long run to start with a front end that was designed to ride lower from the start.

Also, I would in no way take offense in being told to measure twice before I cut and 3 times before I weld. lol I tend to measure 3 or 4 times before I cut and at least that many times before I start to tack things in place. It is always easier to find the mistake before making the cuts. lol I have learned the hard way in the past.

Again, I thank you all for the advice on this. I have a lot of thinking to do.

Does anyone know if the cross member swap would let the truck lay frame when parked?

Thanks!

John  

Glad everyone in the CLT community could help you out so far.  

Hay Curtisfox is on the money. Thats what I did picked up a truck for 50 bucks from my friend next door and swap the hole front cross member drilled 2 holes 6 if you count the panhard bar and then i did the rearend also.the fram was the same width i just mesured well and when i pulled the rearend from the doner i nocked the rivets out left the mounts,leafsprings,rearend and shocks all togather plus all the other goodies i needed hope this helps  

Does your 60 have leaf springs or trailing arms? Its better to keep the trailing arms if you have them. That is what NASCAR runs in there cars.  You can buy from 2 to 5 inch drop rear coils.You can buy the angled spring perches from CPP to mount the rear end to the trailing arms. And if you want the front down you get 2 inch drop spindles and 2 inch drop coils if needed. I got my spindles from Bell tech ( Aim in Trukin mag.)they were cheeper. I used 75 leaf springs in the rear of my 63 and sure wished I hadent. My trailing arms were shot it would have been easier to make new arms then change.