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Removing oil, grease, and old paint

  
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Removing oil, grease, and old paint

 
ajr ajr
New User | Posts: 6 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 04/13/09
09:44 PM

One of the biggest problems any new hobbiest will encounter is how to get a paintable surface that has oil/grease on it.  Solvents can clean most away but may leave some residue.  More solvent/clean/solvent/clean can get it off but a bubble appears when the new paint is applied.  

Here is a not so common solution for the under hood parts.  Leave the solvent tank alone and raid the missus cupboard for some Easy-Off oven cleaner.

Spray the offending item down with Easy-Off, let set for a couple of hours, and hose the grime away.  Repeat the process and add a little elbow grease to get the stubborn areas.  On most parts, they will come clean.

Downside-laquer paints don't stand a chance.  It will remove the paint.  You needed a good surface anyway so don't sweat about it.

Oil based paints are a good solution on chassis components that have seen years of oil and grime.  The paint will not bubble if a small amount of petrol based is still in the pores of the metal, such as castings.  I would not recommend for the block though.

All right guys, what are your thoughts?  

 
houston54 houston54
New User | Posts: 39 | Joined: 03/09
Posted: 04/14/09
05:52 AM

Clean the surface of solid matter using any means necessary - putty knife, fingernails, hot wrench (torch), wife's fav spatula, etc - or use a knotted wire wheel on an angle grinder being sure to use eye/face protection.

Once the solid deposits are now all over everything else in the garage and yourself you should use a was/grease remover and lots of rags.  Scuff the surface with a red 3M scuff pad, prime and paint.

I do not like to use oven cleaners as they leave behind a film.

Chassis paint recommendations I would make, in order of preference, are Zero Rust, Eastwoods Chassis Black, POR15.  Any other paint would be better than leaving it un-coated but may not function for the long haul as the ones I just mentioned.  Of course that is only my experience and yours may be different.

Of course if you can sand/media blast the frame/area/component that would provide the cleanest surface you could attain.  Unfortunately it also causes a large mess if not done in a controlled and safe manner.  

 
ajr ajr
New User | Posts: 6 | Joined: 03/08
Posted: 04/14/09
07:28 PM

I have used rust-bullet with good success but can't comment on Zero Rust.  

We might disagree on the Easy-Off and I must say, your methods are normally true.  

I have not encountered lifting caused by film residue, of course, this is with use of oil based paints.

On the frame, after cleaning by powerwashing and cleaning with wax/grease remover, I did experience some lifting of the paint.  Maybe that is my fault, maybe not.  

 
printermike printermike
New User | Posts: 10 | Joined: 04/09
Posted: 04/26/09
11:48 PM

I clean a lot of things with water soluble cleaner(Purple Power, Mean Green, etc.),a good scrub brush, and water. If that doesn't get it clean, at least it knocks off most of the grungy stuff.  

 
mpayne mpayne
Administrator | Posts: 1157 | Joined: 11/07
Posted: 04/27/09
04:33 PM

One word  

 
oldthing oldthing
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 06/09
Posted: 06/04/09
09:10 PM

Hi, sandblast everything so you know what you have, metal etch, por 15 primer and por 15 top coat. I did my 51 about 12 years ago and I'm not too thrilled to say that she has been stored for the last 6 years. There is some surface rust but the frame had a pressure wash without any indication of rust.  

 

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