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I have a 1958 chevy C-60 Viking.

  
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I have a 1958 chevy C-60 Viking.

 
Spud5 Spud5
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 05/09
Posted: 05/25/09
06:09 PM

I want to convert my single bay brake cylinder to a two resevoir system so if I blow a line I don't loose my entire braking system. Has anyone done this before and if so is there a converstion kit?  Thanks, Matt  

Thespecialist Thespecialist
User | Posts: 171 | Joined: 12/08
Posted: 05/28/09
10:15 AM

First thing is . Do you want some more front sheet metal for your Viking?. Second thing is you can convert the brakes but you may have to do some changes to the equaliser because of the size of the brakes for that model truck.There are kits for the lighter trucks, not sure if the configuration is the same. You may have to go for a larger bore cyclinder.  

keyman4885 keyman4885
New User | Posts: 1 | Joined: 06/09
Posted: 06/09/09
09:32 AM

Hi All I looking for front sheet metal for a spartan 100 it the same as a viking can any one help out        scott cell 413-626-0921  

PackRatWrecker PackRatWrecker
Enthusiast | Posts: 262 | Joined: 09/08
Posted: 06/09/09
07:41 PM

You will need an adjustable proportioning valve, to tweak the front/rear bias, for proper braking.

I don't think you will need a bigger bore, as only half the system is on each side of a dual master cylinder.  Actually, you may need a smaller bore, which is better mechanical advantage.  Probably not 'power brakes good', but surely noticeable.

Be aware that some dual master cylinders have a stepped bore, with a larger bore the feed calipers, and a smaller bore to feed cylinders.

Also, you could go with power brakes, but you will need a small diameter vacuum booster, to fit under the floorboard, or a hydraboost, which requires a power steering pump(and some custom fabbed hoses & tubing).  
**********
1949 Chevy 1 1/2ton, home-built hydraulic wrecker.  Rustoleum industrial black, with flames.  Flamethrowers out 5" dual stacks.
1962 Chevy C-20, 402BB, 4-speed, 3.90 positrack. Hauls my camper.... among other things.
Kaiser M35A Deuce, 4x4 4 wheel steering *work in progress*

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 03/26/11
12:18 PM

I have 1958 viking 60 and just put new wheel cyls. new master cyl.(no leaks) shoes adjusted up real close, NO pedal until i pump 3 times and it will NOT leak down but when i let off and wait 30 sec. no pedal. Can you help?  

autotec autotec
Enthusiast | Posts: 456 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 03/28/11
10:25 PM

You have to adjust all the wheels up so the shoes are real snug and then try it other wise you have air in the system.If you can hear the brakes moving on the first two pumps they are moving to much adjust them up.Hope this helps  

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 03/31/11
08:25 AM

Thanks for response, will adjust closer and let you know, very wet here so it will be a few days  

tailgaterdude tailgaterdude
User | Posts: 200 | Joined: 02/09
Posted: 04/03/11
06:23 PM

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p281/tailgaterdude/File0022.jpg[/IMG]]File0022
'58 I used to drive in Calif about 1976 hauling silage outside Modesto  

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 05/10/11
07:38 AM

i have tried all i know  and now i'm told the "NEW" master cyl. i installed is really a rebuilt one. Where can i find a NEW master cyl.. thanks john  

autotec autotec
Enthusiast | Posts: 456 | Joined: 09/09
Posted: 05/10/11
09:30 PM

John if the master is not leaking and holds after you pump it up there can't be anything wrong with the master.You may have to power bleed the system from the bottom up ,start at the longest brake line and pump the brake fluid in at the wheel and work your way around to the closest wheel.Sometimes i have pumped up to a qt.of fluid in the second wheel from the back if the line joins on the rear end it takes a lot of fluid to get the air out on these trucks and if you are bleeding from the front down the air just keeps coming back up when you pump it and never comes out.There are several differant pumps you can buy and you don't need a expensive one to do the job.  

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 02/25/13
01:21 PM

I'm still having brake issues on my 1958 Chevy Viking, replaced all 6 wheel cyls and master and adjusted shoes up very close and now I' m told I need a new Hydrostatic brake booster,,,,can anyone help where to send for rebuild,,thanks  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 221 | Joined: 05/12
Posted: 02/25/13
06:29 PM

have you talked with your local Napa store???  its amazing what they can get...

out here in so cal.. there are several rebuilders..


one is

http://www.pwrbrake.com/Power_Brake_Boosters.html

you may also find this handy   i would take that chevy and GMC were very similar

http://www.gmpartswiki.com/getpage?pageid=23601


do post if you still have issues...  

waynep71222 waynep71222
User | Posts: 221 | Joined: 05/12
Posted: 02/25/13
06:51 PM

there is also a chevy HD truck parts catalog on the gm parts wiki site also..

you may also want to .. and i know you are trying not to spend a bunch of money..

pick up from either classic industries or original parts group... one of their hydraulic brake pressure gauge kits..

CH28715 Lrg

Part ID: CH28715 at OPGI  

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 02/26/13
10:02 AM

Thank you for website info, sent info to them minutes ago, John  

trailboss1 trailboss1
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 03/11
Posted: 02/26/13
04:25 PM

THANKS FOR THE HELP , the booster on the way to Power Brake Exchange in San Jose,,,,,john  

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