Ideas, ideas.

My name is Greg.  I just now became a member because I'm actually heading out tomorrow to purchase my first project truck....again (had a 52 3/4 ton chevy that was stolen 2 wks after I bought it while in the process of putting in a 350).  I found another 52 3/4 ton and this one runs (who could pass that up for only $550?).  This is going to be a very low budget, do as much as possible myself,  build since I'm just a young SSgt in the USAF so I don't have too much spending money.  My vision for the truck is a low and fast but streetable truck (classic look with a modern feel).  My questions are: What are good engines to look for (or what can I do to the 235), what would be a good subframe, should I keep the original frame (great condition) or swap it?  I've never welded but want to learn and I can get the supplies to do pretty much whatever I'll need to do at the local auto hobby shop here on base.  I guess for the cheapest way to get an updated drive quality how should I go about it?  Most of my purchases will be made by junk yard diving. I have no problem cleaning up old parts and I'm prepared to take my time and doing it right.  Thank you in advance.

-Greg  

Understand the lack of $$. I have used the front suspension from a late 70's AMC Pacer. It is a bolt in piece on the pacer. The frame part has a taper that matches the Chevy frame so it will bolt to your truck with no welding. It will have rack & pinion steering (possibly power). It could also have disc brakes. If you find one with disc brakes, get the master cylinder off the car. These front ends in salvage yards usually go for $200-$250 here in Central Texas. There are several tech articles online about this swap. This front end also gives the truck a great stance. The pacer weighs about the same as the truck, so you don't have to change the front springs. I have two '54 3100 1/2 tons with this front end suspension. For the power train, I would stick with the 235 inline 6. It has great power and you can fit either a stick shift or and automatic behind it. One of my trucks has an 350 automatic and the other one has a T5. There are lots of speed parts available for the 235 engine also.
Hope this helps,
Buffalotrux
Keeping 'em inline since'53  

Thank you for that information.  A guy I was talking to today also suggested an s-10 regular cab long bed chassis.  I found one at a yard here for 200.  I am definitely going to look into the pacer subframe though.  That will make things easier.  The frame appears to be in pretty good shape.  I'm just going to need to clean it up and undercoat it.  (any suggestions on good undercoating spray?).  Also about the 235 performance parts...where do I find those?  Appreciate all your help.

-Greg  

I would use Rust Seal for your spray.  

There are kits out there to "Bolt" your body to an S-10 chassis but you said you didn't have much money so thats most likely out.  You can do it yourself but you said you can't weld so you need to know there will be welding that will need to be done.  If you have a nice chassis then upgrade the one you have.  Front clip or upgrade w/new parts.  There are kits to install dics's and power brakes and kits to put air in the truck.

Nice thing about these trucks being in demand is there are many many things you can do in many many directions.  I suggest before you do anything you check out as many sources as you can and as many web sites as you can.  Come up with a plan and a budget, then double it.  Come up with a time schedule, then tripple it.

Good luck
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07 GMC crew diesel
53 3100 original
53 3100 rat
51 3100 streetrod
49 F1 panel

Thank you very much.  I want to learn to weld and I have a buddy with a welder.  I'm sure the welding wouldn't be the biggest hurdle.  I just found another question though.  I was reading about the 235's and I'm aware that the post 53 235's are preferred because of their full flow oil application.  The 235 that's in the 52 is original to that truck but I also got another "235" that came from a 54 1.5 ton chevy.  The thing is from my reading that the later engines had a different looking valve cover (4 bolts around the lip instead of 2 in the top.  I looked at the engine from the 54 and it has the 2 screws in the top of the cover.  I haven't started taking it apart yet but is it possible that this one (having come from a 1.4 ton) is a 261?  I don't know what the difference is between the 216s 235s and 261s really.  BTW I can't find any online and I was wondering how much a kit is to bolt the body to an s-10 frame.  Thanks again you guys have been so much help already and I've only had the truck for a few days.  I'll be happy to post pics when I get some more time.  Thanks again

-Greg  

Greg,

1st, thanks for your service to our country.  

On the engine that is currently in the 54 1 1/2 ton..   Some of the early 54 large trucks still had the older low pressure  235 engines.  All the 261s that I have seen have the 4 mounts on the sides, so I would guess it is an older 235.

Only exception is there are kits that convert the studs to a 2 hole center attach.  These were typically used to install a stiff two bolt aluminum or after market Offenhauser cover (they leak less) to the later 4 bolt 235 and 261s.  You didnt say it was an aftermarket, and I can think of no reason why someone would go to the trouble to convert back to the 2 stud.

My advice is find the VIN stamp on the engine and post it on this forum.  We will be able to tell you the vintage.  
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1950 Chevy 3600

1942 Ford Jeep

I was only able to find one number right now at the moment.  I'm waiting on some more money to come around before I buy an engine stand and rent an engine hoist so I can start tearing it down.  Right now it's still in the back of my Silverado.  The number I found was actually on the header and it reads 3835590.  Not sure if this is the number I need but it is the only one I can find on it right now until I can get it sitting upright.  Just making sure that my priorities are right.  My first priority right now is getting one of these engines running and getting an s-10 chassis ready for the body.  While I'm waiting for payday so I can get the chassis I will be pulling off the body and straightening the fenders and getting the corner patched that is rusted through.  Is that a good start or should I begin with something else?  Thanks again for all the help.

-Greg  

I found another number right behind the distributor but it doesn't come even close to matching anything on inliners.org  That number reads AKCA 592598.  That is on the engine that's in the 52.  The other one is laying on it's side so I can't find anything other than the number on the header.  

Greg,

OK, you have me a little confused, but thats not unusual

The header number would fit on either a 216 or 235 engine

The engine serial number behind the distributor if it is a AKCA would lead me to believe it is a babbit bearing Chevy 216.  The serial number tho.. should start with a 3 not a 5.   In liners is the best source for online info that I know of.. maybe some one else has a better source  
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1950 Chevy 3600

1942 Ford Jeep

Sorry for the confusion.  That's all I can find though.  Is there some place on the other engine that I can look to find a number?  The AKCA number came from the engine inside the truck.  The other engine is currently on it's side with the header up and I can't find any number other than the header number.  I can wait to get it picked up if I have to but I'd rather know now if possible so I know whether I should sell it or not.  I hope it's a 54 like the guy told me but I'm not too sure.  If it's not then I don't know what I'll do.  Should I just fix it up while I look for a 292 or newer 235 (54 or later)?  Or should I just sell it and spend time looking for a suitable engine?  I don't know what kind of power I can get out of an older 235 without full flow oil.  Again I appreciate all the input.  Thank you much for the help.

-Greg  

I've got a new plan of attack here.  Considering I want this truck to be low and fast I've decided to start looking for a suitable IFS to sit under a small block v-8 with a 5spd manual trans.  I am wondering what engine/tranny combo would work with little mods to the frame.  Also where do I find lowering  blocks for the rear? or is there a better way to drop the back end?  Thank you for all the help thus far.  The body is almost completely off the chassis.  Soon I will pull the engine and sell both 235's to search for a v-8.

-Greg