Stainless Steel

I am specing out my Heidts Superride II IFS and notice it is quite a bit more for stainless steel...  The truck is going to be a driver so I am wondering about what value the finish has for longenvity as well as looks. I was just going to paint the Control arms etc. Also I am not sure how much you will see them on a 49 3100 pickup.


Also, narrowed versus standard control arms? Are there particular items I should pay attention to which would dictate whether or not I go narrow or standard?


Thank  you.  

If the control arms were powder coated you'd be in pretty good shape. I've never been one to invest huge monies on items that cannot be seen unless on a rack.
Longevity? Mild steel should last you at least as long as the truck we're disscussing is old, so unless it's expected to be around for sixty plus years[and you] it's strictly asthethics, isn't it?
If it's on a rack it's likely broke anyhoo so any impression you'd gain is likely lost due to the fact.
'Course if you do all yer own work maybe the only person you need to impress is yourself, you just have to ask yourself is it worth it? To me? Am I expecting to win shows with this thing or drive it?
If we were talking about a fenderless hiboy, I prolly would spend the x-tra monies.

As for widths, I used to think that they made longer control arms to make up for the fact a pinto suspention rack, etc, is to narrow.
As far as I can tell, the 'width' is instead the front to back measurement of the control arm itself, a narrow one would allow the use of a wider wheel,,but that still does not correct the problem  of the overal track being to narrow, as the skinny control arms only help with negative ofset wheels.
Again you begin to see why I preffer the Industrial Chassis setup.
If you start out with the right trac width in the first place, along with bigger rotors&bearings,, in the first place, none of these 'upgrades' are neccesary nor does it get you in the wallet.
Remember, no matter what, you're putting a suspention under there that is based on a seventies Pinto design and engineering,, and somehow 'glorified' buy calling it 'Mustang 11'as thou they handled or stopped any better at all.
Anything to fix the inherent problems therein [control arms, bumpsteer, bearings, larger rotors]are available,..for a PRICE.
Or you can do what I did, and save about $1200. bucks.  

Thank you, that all makes sense and is the answer I was hoping to get.  Did you get my PM regarding another post were you discussed the Mustang 2 in detail. I ask because I was looking at the SuperRide II here Heidts SuperRide II Link

They say that they designed their own drop spindles so I was just curious as to your thoughts.  

No, I got a 'notice' here, saying I got a message, but, it, umm, doesn't go anywhere when I click it.
The people I buy from also sell fatman and heidts and they claim the spindles are not designed to correct bumpsteer.
I would, however, like to think, since they themselves had notified heidts and fatman of the problem, that it has since been addressed.
I can tell you, that IF it has, it has since my phone call of two months ago...
Anyway, redeesigning the spindles in house would in fact correct said problem.
It's only a problem when lowering  the 'mustang 2' kits,[coils, spindles] but, who doesn't?
Positve offset front wheels help correct the fact that the mustang/pinto is two inches shy of the correct width.[that width being cosidered the stock width, that is]
I would say narrowed 'A' arms would not be neccesary for this.  

I am getting drawn in by the big bold letter stating

This is NOT a mustang 2 conversion kit

On a plus not I found a guy locally who will do the media blasting and powdercoating of my frame for only 450 plus little things like the control arms etc. He is quite a bit less then the other place I looked at in town which is great and scares me at the same time. I have an almost perfect original frame and I would be sad to see it ruined somehow.  

If you have TWO frames this would be a good time to box a frame in.
Left rail to right, and right to left. It could be done in sections.
An old trick of mine. This requires custom crossmembers, thou.
As for the bold letters, and the kit, it sounds like  the kit your looking at is upgraded with the better components, as opposed to scrounging a boneyard for the stock rotors, a-arms and rack. Mustang-Pinto rotors and bearings are too small, IMO.
Still I'd wonder what the track width is stated as being.
In any case bold letters saying "is NOT mustang 2" is quite telling and fits with what I'm saying here.
Ford affecanos have always told me the mustang 2 was the worst handling POS they'd ever implemented. I've also heard from folks who install these for a living that Mustang @ racks steer a bit 'fast', ratio wise, and feel 'twitchy' to someone used to driving, say, a GM product.

I'd  ask them directy about the spindles and if they were redesigned to help the bumpsteer issue. You want the rack ends to align with the spindles at a more favorable angle.
Have fun with it.  

His truck is a 49 Chevrolet. According to the Industrial Chassis website they do not have a Dakota frontend for the 48-54 Chev pickup. It is too wide. A stock width Mustang II fits fine in that applications and does not require a wider rack and pinion or crossmember. You do not want to use the narrow a-arms as it will be too narrow. The track width for that truck should be about 57". The Heidts Superide II uses stock or dropped Mustang II spindles and a stock width front mounted manual or power rack. The manual rack is a m74-78 Mustang II and the power rack is a mid 90's Mustang.  
Tim Stromberger
Owner of Tim's Hot Rods in Davenport, Wa
Dealer for TCI, Heidt's, CPP and most major parts manufacturers. www.timshotrods.com
509 926 1429