G'day everybody. I'm looking for some advice on identifying an old Chev truck i have found and would like to buy. Its a holden Australia plated 1951 model. From googleing the numbers i came up with it being an 1130 or 1140. What does that mean? On the side of the bonnet there is an 1100 badge. I read a bit about these trucks and there being 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1 and 1/2 ton versions, I'm wondering what this one is. It has a flat tray and 20 inch wheels on it. The rear has duals. Do the front guards change on these trucks for the different size rims they run? Thanks in advance, pun intended, Ron.
being in california.. i don't personally have any info on holden models.. there is a site called gmpartswiki that has a lot of older G m part's catalogs that will probably help you identify some of the components.. if they were made and used north american part numbering.. you will have to go page by page.. but it might help.. click the browse link to see the different catalog covers and which models they cover. 20" wheels usually indicate a 2 ton or larger truck.. but i have not researched this for a complete answer..if you have issues finding the proper pages... and i know you are going to have fun in going thru the parts catalogs.. post and i will devote some time...up load some images. use an image hosting site like photobucket and then copy and paste the links that begin with img..if you post most of the vin number... xxx out the last few numbers.. it will give us the ability to help you.. identify which one it is..look in the last active posts here.. and over at customclassictrucks dot com there is a thread on this issue there also
lastly... if you decide on buying this truck...please... think forward into swapping either a whole later frame and axles with the later brakes... or just the axles and brakes from something newer than about 1975...early heavy duty brakes required the driver to do a LOT of downshifting... if you have any load at all on it.. they tend to get hot and fade.. you will also want to know that on heavy duty trucks.. you are going to probably end up needing to double clutch each shift.. WHAT.!from first to second... goes like this..accelerating in first.. ready to shift.. release throttle just after you depress the clutch.. move shifter from first into neutral.. release clutch pedal and then depress again.. move shifter into second gear.. let up to clutch pedal to engage second gear... what this does is it slows down the fast spinning clutch disc.. so you can get the slider in the transmission to move to the next gear without needing to grind teeth to get the matching speed right..the trick is to know the speed the engine needs to be at when you go from neutral to second gear.. so the gears don't grind.. there is a LOT of inertia going on here.. down shifting requires to depress the clutch shift into neutral.. rev the engine to the proper speed.. release the clutch pedal... then step on the clutch pedal again and slip it into the next gear down and take your foot off the clutch... this is something that i can explain.. but it has to be learned.. hopefully not at the cost of a transmission.. if you start grinding gears... please change the transmission gear lube as much as possible to remove the particles before they can get into the bearings and between the meshing gears... most transmissions have a magnet on the drain plug.. but get too much metal on that magnet.. and it will get into the bearings..
G'day, thanks for the reply. From what information I have been able to find on the various sites on the net I think the chevs that came to oz were assembled / pre assembled in Canada. The ID plate attached is a Holden plate and the serial number is nothing like the American one from which you can get all the info im looking for. From the serial number on the plate and the help of an internet site the numbers make this truck an 1130 or 1140. I assume these two numbers determine what load capacity the truck is. As I said on the side of the bonnet is an 1100 badge so I guess that is just the series. What Im trying to determine really is, are these trucks all the same in their bodies and panels? I want to turn it into a ute / pickup with a tub on the back. I would need to get rid of the 20 inch rims and put something smaller but am worried about the size of the opening in the front fenders. On one site I read that the fenders do change but another site said they don't. As for double clutching, yep I get all that thanks, pain in the arse if you don't get it right. Yes, I think I should post a picture up shortly so everyone can see, it is really just the same as what you guys have over there, so im sure if somebody sees it then I will have more luck. Thanks again. Ron.
with the VIN number....
Thanks Wayne. As you can see from the pic the aussie id plate doesn't show the info that the us plate does. 52/511B means it is a 1130 or 1140 from what I have managed to find out. Anyway just wondering what the differences are between the larger capacity trucks and the pickups as im interested in turning this one into a pickup of I can. Thanks again for your interest in helping. Ron
how about a VIN number.????? there is probably another plate on the driver door jam.. as this one should have been on the firewall under the hood...those are HAND stamped... .... 51/ 5211B. thats a WOW.,,on this side of the world.. the are embossed from the rear like the rest of the trim plate is.. as i recall.. that might require looking to see if there are any license plates left on it... searching the glove box for and visors for any kind of past registration... hauling it or having a police officer come out to identify it.. what we call here a VIN check.. or Vin verification. when VIN numbers are not readable.. new VIN numbers that are provided on a decal or riveted on plate are supplied by the department of motor vehicles. they do not match the original vin. but it makes the truck LEGAL for a new TITLE to be issued.. i wish i could have been more help...
for some reason i can now see the picture in your first post...wow....
I didn't look any further for a vin plate once I found the plate under th bonnet. I assumed wrongly that I would get the info from it. it would make sense for there to be another one somewhere so I might go take another look. I have found a post on another forum which is talking about this same type of truck. Apparently the front sheetmetal is all different on these trucks to the pickups which is what im wanting to build. so now I don't thimk this is what I am looking for. Shame really because this truck is rust free and very very complete, right down to the key still being in the ignition.
ok... want to build a pickup out of the ton and a half or 2 ton cab and sheet metal...thats still TOTALLY Possible...build it like an F550 or F650 ... i don't know what the GM designations are for that rating of truck..that would be very cool....
might have to put some ROO bars on the front to protect the front sheetmetal..if you make the ROO bars removable by installing a trailer hitch socket on either frame horn.. you could have nice decorative inserts.. when the roo bars are off..this depends on where you live and if you plan on mashing some hoppers.. or what ever you call it.. i took a road trip across country a bunch of years ago... there were crews out picking up roadkill along the sides of the highways.. this is just an idea.. but built like an F650 is the real thing.. hope you get this..
yeah, that's not a bad thought, could leave it large I guess and do something different. Food for thought for sure.
here is a Thought.. for your rear tires... ditch the duals in the back.. for some big rig BIG SINGLES..445/50R22.5 height40.0" 1,016MMtread width17.6 " 447mm522 turns per mile. 324 turns per kilometer so you can figure out your engine RPM needs.. big rig rear ends.. usually come with 3.73 or 4.10 gears.. the rear end in that 51 probably has 6:50 to 7;20 gears. rim width needed 14.00" these only fit on big rig rims as far as i know.. TUBELESS TIRES ON 15 degree DROP CENTER RIMSagain.. just a thought..they are only speed rated to 75MPH... but i bet thats at full load...there are probably other options.. in similar sizes.. this model is rated at 10,500 pounds in single tire .. if you can get rims to fit what ever rear end you select.. so use care in selecting them..one draw back.. the weight of each tire...189 Lbs 86 Kgsnot light.. but stylish..
Hi Ron,I'm in South Australia and looking at the photo this truck is identical to the one i have (although mine doesnt have the 1100 under the chevrolet on the bonnet)You should have a Canada plate on firewall read something like 9-11329 = year 1949 (yours would be 1 for 19511 = Chevrolet1 - 1.5 Ton3 = Wheelbase not sure refence for it i know 4 = 161 inch2 = Chassis with cowl (how Holden had it bought in from Canada and assembled it)The 5211B is model reference from Holden i think. 5211B is 1130 series or a 9130 series. I have found no material of what these mean.The 1130 relates to a 1 or 1.5 ton.Mine still had number plates and by motor reg was 3400Kg GVW Working on this would weight 2 ton i assume 1.5 Ton load limit.Holden used 10 stud and 20 inch rims as i assume they didn't bring in more than they had to and sourced that locally. Way over engineered!!!!By my rego limits a 9 inch with floating hubs would suit and maybe even without hubs! Check with local engineer for rego requirements (each state is different no matter what any one tells you) If you find out anything else let me know CheersRaphe