Need help headlight work but parking lights do not

Hello I'm new to this forum.  This is the problem that I'm having my headlights work but my parking lights do not.  I have replaced the headlight switch but that didn't fix the problem.  I tested the fuse box and found power to every fuse but one the instrument panel fuse.  I replaces the fuse but nothing happens still no power.  Does anybody know what will cause this problem?  Please help I am at a dead end and don't know where to turn.  

there is a problem...  different years, brands. models are wired differently...

almost all cars and trucks have MULTIPLE wires into and out of the headlight switch..

lets look at this one that i prepared for another forum...  this switch is a SW144 used in GM cars and trucks from the late 60s through the early 90s depending on the model...

edit.. this is a corrected image..



now... one more thing...

cars and trucks  before 68 i think .. did not have front parking lights on when the headlights were on .

so shaft pushed in... everything off..

one position out.. front parking lights and rear tail lights..

second position out..   headlights up front and tail lights only..   NO front parking lights in the headlights on position..  

Somebody please help me  

I have a 77 chevy c20 pick up and i always had front parking lights  until last week now I have no instrument panel light or parking or tail lights but my hazards work and my turn signals all work front and back just no parking lights and I have a new headlight switch  

thats the RIGHT SWITCH for that truck...

but i have DRAWN the diagram wrong...

the pinkish looking wires on pin 5 are actually from the Tail light fuse... and are ORANGE on your truck... does both sides of the TAIL light fuse holder have power????

the other #5 pink wire// ORANGE on your truck goes to the DOME light ORANGE wire..


the  brown wire goes to the tail and parking lights...


so it should have current when the head light switch in the first and second position...

one thing...

i have had terrible problems with GM turn signal sockets...

i normally strip back 3 inches of 16 or 18 gauge stranded copper wire... from a 2 foot long section...  or as long as you need it to be... wrap the 3 inches around the base of the glass bulb at the top of the sleeve.. then twist it tight... then insert the bulb back into the socket..

make a necktie...  not shoe laces..  attach the other end of that wire to a good known ground..

or leave it really long and attach it to the battery negative..  

No power to either side of the fuse its like that fuse spot is dead no power at all but I got power to every other fuse in the box except the instrument panel fuse  

ok... let me look at that circuit...

i am pasting in the corrected headlight switch diagram above..

be right back.... stick around...  

Ok I will I really need help with this headlight switch was the right one  

OK.. lets start under the hood..

take your test light...  probe the red wire on the back of the alternator.. you should have power there...

now.. probe the red wire thats plugged into the side of the alternator.... that should have power also...    but from a different fusible link down at the starter motor...

yep... bet its a blown fusible link... or... a dirty terminal block above the passenger side valve cover on the firewall...

that brown/black device with plastic pins sticking out... several wires coming out and mounted on TWO Studs...

disconnect your battery...   take both nuts off the 2 different sized studs... wire brush all the terminals on both sides...  reassemble...

here is a drawing i highlighted for another post earlier with the fusible links drawn in... this is for 77 to 80 gm trucks..



let us know what happens...

do you own a  digital volt meter???? i have a test that will also help you..  

oh... in the colorized drawing above.. circuit into connector 2J is the circuit you have a problem with...  

run this test also when you get your fusible link replaced.. the blown fusible link is probably a 16 gauge...   do not increase the fusible link size..  unless you have seriously rewired the truck..  or the harness can burn before the fusible link burns...



 

I don't own a digital voltmeter just the one with the light on it with the ground to test the circuit when it's on.  I will try that tomorrow when it's light outside and will keep you posted thanks for all the help and diagrams u sent me  

digital volt meters are cheep... 5 bucks to 20 bucks.. worth their weight in gold.. with the test above..

the images i posted should be PRINTABLE. if you drag them to your hard drive..

there could also be a short somewhere.. or the fusible link could have just broken..

please disconnect the battery before attempting to disconnect and replace the fusible link..

warning.. sometimes you have to carefully drop the starter...  the wiring for the starter might be in a tube..

 

I looked for the fuse able link today and all I found was 1 spot where there were a metal clip that had 2 wires on one side and 2 on the other side with what looked to be solder on the closed part of the clip.  I took some pictures but I can't seem to get them on this page .  My truck has the positive terminal running straight to the starter with a wire running to the junction box on the fire wall it has no clip with solder just a straight wire .  Then from the junction box there is a wire running to the clip with the solder on it and then to the alternator the other wire running to the alternator comes out of the dash to that clip and to the alternator.  I checked it and it don't look burnt at all I have power to both sides of the two wires into and out of the clip.  Like I said befor I have power to all of my fuses except the panel light it just seems to be dead no power on either side of the fuse.  

you can use an image hosting site like photobucket.. imageshack or others to store your photos online...  then use the img code to paste here...

test 1

do you have power at both the red wire on the back of the alternator and at the red wire into the side of the alternator...

those are on different fusible links....  if you have power at both.. then your fusible link/s are not blown out..  problem is farther into the cab...

can you find the 2 studded terminal block on the firewall???  take it apart and clean the wires to it..

if you have cleaned them... and i have found a bunch of them loose and dirty.. go on to the back of the fuse box.. there are 2 screws that will allow you to separate the fuse box from the bulk head connector so you can see the back side where the wires are...

there is a screw at one of the top corners and the other bottom corner... you can then pull the fuse block away and twist it around to view the back side checking for power to the back side of the tail light fuse...