My customer brought a project for me...he has a built 700r4 and wants replace the saginaw thats currently behind a zz4...does anyone have any tips or suggestions? what about shifters? Thanks, RC
flywheel. depending on the motor... you may want to cart the old flywheel and the new flex plate over to your wheel balancer.. hang them one at a time on the balancer... set the wheel offset to zero and the rim width to zero... set the rim diameter to 14" spin it up.. make sure that they both read really really close to the same.. since you have a ZZ4.. i don't know which balance flywheel they use.. you will also want to measure back from the starter mounting edge of the block to the flywheel teeth.. look at the ZZ4 starter mounting bolts also.. .are they SAE with stripes on the head.. or metric with DIN numbers... 10.9/12.9.. there are differences in the starter motor mounting holes..3/8 is 0.375... 10mm is 0.392 or so.. an improper starter will kick out of place no matter how tight you put it.. stick a metric bolt into an SAE block and you will break the bolt off or more than likely split the block corner off... if you loosen the bolts 1/2 turn only see if the starter shifts around.. (O ) it should NOT.. should be like this (O)... its aligned by the knurled section of the starter bolt where the starter meets the block and the knurled section fits tight in the nose and fits into the counter bored hole.. you can also verify the clearance with a 1/8" drill .. between the shaft and the outside of the flywheel teeth.. if you have a small gear reduction starter.. check for clearance.. there are shims tubes available from some alternator shops that allowed the use of metric alternator cases on SAE applications. do you need to change the starter?? is it block mounted or bell housing mounted..does your 60 have side motor mounts or front mounts??? removing the rivets that hold the bell housing motor mount brackets onto the crossmember.installing a transmission crossmember...replacing the drive shaft..most important is getting the correct throttle valve cable adaptor bracket for that carb...there are versions for quadrajets.. there are versions for carter 4 barrels and edelbrock carbs.. there are versions for holley ...this gives the throttle cable core the proper throttle angle to amount of pull so it stays in adjustment and properly controls the line pressure.. get this wrong the transmission will last 2 blocks... and i am NOT KIDING .. i seem to recall that the carb shaft center line to center line of the 700R4 throttle cable end hook up is 25 mm.. or 1" you sound like you have a shop.. got a used GM throttle body TBI kicking around the parts bin.. measure shaft center to the lower hookup... really late ones may not have it.. but 83 thru 92/3 should have it.. almost any of the feed back gm carbs will have the correct length also.. there are a few early 80s that won't.. those had a black mixture solenoid connector instead of the blue.. as for shifters.. there are a BUNCH of ways to go.. i am taking its 3 on the tree... converting to a later column.. or one of the aftermarket columns.. there are differences between the powerglide , th350/th400 and the 2004r/700R4 detent plates in the column that allow the shifter to come against a stop inside the column.. there are also cable shifters available... they can be mounted on a tower box you could have a local HVAC or Sign shop build up from a pattern you make up out of cardboard.. there are also thru the floor shifter options.. please be sure to hook up some kind of back up lights and neutral safety switch. so its safe to drive and does not come back at you sometime in the future.. neutral safety and back up lights are checked at most rodding events to get a car or truck in.. do to insurance regs.. there is an OVERDRIVE option that is closer to what you have...there are Newprocess A833 3 speed overdrive transmissions in a GM input shaft and bolt pattern that might just slip right into the existing bellhousing.. you would just have to add a morse cable to shift in and out of reverse... use the stock 3 on the tree shifter for this pattern..1-3 |2-4 instead of R-2 |1-3the morse cable operates the reverse lever.. this also gives him a feature.. of being able to ENGAGE REVERSE and a forward gear to LOCK the out put shaft.. to prevent the truck from rolling away.. kind of a neat way to duplicate a PARK position with a manual transmission. .the cast iron case A833 will live hanging out unsupported.. an aluminum case might also.. if you have a engine support bar for doing front wheel drive transmissions.. that might be really handy for doing this job..the aluminum case transmissions don't like front motor mounts.. only side.. there is too much downward pressure on the bell housing.. it can lead to a short transmission life.. blowing out the front pump seal and bushing.. be sure to remove the pilot bearing or bushing in the center of the crank... also place the new torque converter into the back of the crank without the flywheel or flex plate installed.. make sure the converter pilot if free to slide all the way in and out.. a light coating of grease will help keep it sliding freely.. you may also want to have an assistant fire the truck up before you take it apart... while you observe the crank pulley... with the engine idling.. looking down the belts from the side.. have him depress the clutch.. make sure that you don't have excessive crank thrust clearance.. from decades of manual transmission ...i am not an expert at these swaps.. and it might be simpler than this.. or a few additional steps..if you are not aware of all the parts available.. click on some of the ads in the header bar at the top of the page. or pick up a printed issue at many parts stores and some supermarkets.. there are about 40 car and truck magazines on this site.. there are probably feature stories on this swap... there is an search window above right.. and a tech section in each magazine..i an envision that this swap might be covered in 5 or 6 of the car and truck magazines ..OK forum members what did i forget.. speedometer gears... probably.. so tire roll out.. and gear ratio is needed to get a proper set .. or an adaptor box.. i think you need 1000 turns per mile.. and there are differences in the driven gear housing depending on if you have less than 40 drive gear teeth or more than 40.. the center offset is different.. either the gear will mesh or it will be too close or not engaging..