Here's some shots of the first stages of bringing this ole girl back to life. First things first - To tackle THAT roof!!!!The travel wagon as bought from Utah (with hole in roof!!!)Donor GMC roof from MichiganThe old skin removed at the spot welds and junkedIs this the first convertible suburban? ;-)__________________
nice work....keep it coming.. editing the size image size in photobucket to 599 width will get each pic full width..other magazine forums here have builds that cover entire builds...
Ohhh. great tip. Cheers wayne
resized in photobucket. Not surwe if they auto relink or not though - applogies
most resized....here s a tip... while building cars with air suspension...an adjustable air pressure regulator with a gauge... but not installed in the line.. but with a QD plug and a quick disconnect... so you can can hook this to the end of any air hose... and the tire chuck or lock on tire chuck.. so you can fill the air bags to a specific pressure just by cranking the regulator up or down... then disconnecting and storing it in your tool box drawer...i worked in a caddy resto shop many years ago.. some of the cars had air suspension.. instead of running the cars to keep the pressure up... i cheated... i filled the reservoirs on each of the cars every few days with a pressure regulated tire chuck.. saved a lot of time each week.. thats not an issue for your shop.. but it sure came in handy...i also had snagged a ford air suspension bag solenoid pigtail.. extended the wires with color coded battery clips.. and a momentary push button.. i also had a section of the air tubing with a 3/16 to 1/4NPT and a quick connect on it.. so i could unplug the solenoid pigtail.. hook it up to the battery... or my jump start box.. and a the shop air hose with the pressure regulator in line.. so i could deflate the bags or struts in seconds.. and reinflate them on the rack before i drop it..a warning with the ford air bag solenoids.. if one was to attempt this.. these solenoids have a diode in them to protect the computer from spikes. there is a (+) and a (-) mix up the clips at the battery.. the first push of a button will blow out the solenoid diode and the solenoid will be junk.. in a split second...
Thanks for info Wayne. Is it a problem adding more connectors in the circuit as potential points where leaks would occur? This will be my first air-ride car after previously being lifted by juice only so any heads up is appreciated. Sadly this isn't my shop it's at Starlite Rod & Kustom until such time as I import it back to the UK to carry on with the build myself. :-)
oh.. and my air hose idea does not add to the system.. its in the shop air hose that keep the system inflated to different levels in the shop during the build.. ah... an export version...what you going to run for a fuel miser of a motor... to cope with the cost of UK fuel.??going small displacement.. 283/327 or even a 305 chevy small bore long stroke.. and something for a carb either a 390 CFM holley or one of the demon versions that have primary bores of a 390 holley and secondary bores of a 750 but still it bolts to a holley square flange... if you end up going to either.. you will want to find something with an aftermarket primary metering block.. as the aftermarket versions have easily changed idle feed restrictions.. and this is where you are going to be able to tweak your fuel economy during cruise at.. there are also summit private label carbs. that are decendents of the autolite 4100/2100 ford carbs.. but with holley vacuum secondary controls.. so conventional holley carb secondary springs work.. and holley main jets.. but the idle feed restrictors and air bleeds are easily changed by removing the carb lid and the booster assemblies.. this is done without needing to drain the float bowls.. just a thought..back in the mid 80s... gm had feed back carb systems.. when they were perfect.. the V6 buick and V6 chevy versions cold get around 26 MPG. 305 versions could get 23.. and 350 versions could get 19 to 21.. easily.. oxygenated and MTBE blends of fuels reduce the possible fuel economy because there are LESS BTUs in the fuel.. these feedback systems are not recommended to retro fit.. as they are very complex beasts.. some of the fuel injection systems lost a lot of fuel economy when they went to OBD2.. as the need to run richer to keep the cat at operating temps with the extra fuel keeping the combustion going... but i am the only one that will really say that..could drop a range rover port fuel injected motor in it.. with some kind of 2 wheel drive transmission... i looked at a mid 90s Range rover in the junk yard here.. under the upper plenum are staggered height velosity tubes.. now.. how to cast a upper plenum out of pirex glass so it could be seen and still have the throttle body attached to control the air flow.. or just put some glass windows in it.. with some LED lighting to show it off.. might be an issue with the front sump in the oil pan.. there are also rear wheel drive port fuel injected GM V6 motors in camaros.. that might fit nice.. so you could get the V6 for fuel economy.. a nice looking intake.. port fuel injection for economy and the 4L60 or 4L60E transmission with the 4th gear being overdrive..
Now you've got me worried Wayne.Currently power is coming from a donor 70's 350SBC which already had nearly new Holley Carb and intakes on it. I was going to see how I got on with it over here and if it just proved too difficult to fuel then maybe drop in a side mount spare tyre LPG tank (or two !!!!).Interesting to hear your thought on carbs tho. Is it a myth that a sensibly sized tri-carb setup (with a primary carb) will always run more efficient than a dual or four barrel?
The SBC is matched up to a 700R4 trans which will hopefully give me motorway crusing but agreed with the compromise it being a slightly weaker box so never being able to tow (or do burnouts ;-)
700R4 transmissions require a bracket on the thottle lever to correct the ratio...here is an install on an edelbrock carb... its 25 mm or 1" from center of the shaft to the center of the pivot as i have measured on OE throttle bodies..
as for a tri power getting better fuel economy... probably... there are lots of variations on 2 barrel carbs...there are versions of the autolite ford 2100 2 barrel. that will easily bolt on that intake with just a block off plate..there are holley and some knock off 2 barrels available in 350 CFM and 500 CFMso many ways to go... including compressed gasses... those over here usually get special stuff done to the heads... super hard valve seats installed.. usually out of a non magnetic material.. and new valves... one thing.. i like the rubber wire retained valve stem seals.. not the little teflon versions.. and i assemble the valves into the guides with some stay lube.. moly graphite assembly lube on the valve and working in back and forth till its smooth.. then putting a circle of it around the top of the stem.. then push the seal down so there is a reservoir of the assembly lube to keep the stem lubed for a long time.. but thats just me..you might want to have an oxygen sensor bung installed in the exhaust pipes .. so you can install an oxygen sensor and an air fuel ratio display.. this way you can keep an eye on air fuel ratio..more on this later..
So the engine is in. Ramhorns for clearance of the steering setup and '51 Thistle Gray gunned onto the firewall so we can get it rebuilt and rolling again.Thanks for the info on the linkage for correct 700R4 ratios that is a godsend. And you are not the first person to say about getting a Lambda sensor in the exhaust so it'll defo be added to the list of job I've got to do once it arrives over here.
My build in epoxy and sealed up ready for shippingDropped in the assStock height