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Very scary

  
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Very scary

 
bill513 bill513
New User | Posts: 15 | Joined: 12/12
Posted: 05/03/13
04:07 PM

Started up my 67-327-2 barrel and was just letting it warm up when it started running rough.  Opened the hood and saw gas just flowing out the top of the carburetor.  Turned it off and soaked it all up with towels.  It was a lot,  like a waterfall.  What the heck was that?  Should I pull the carb and try to rebuild it or just buy a new one?  

waynep712222 waynep712222
User | Posts: 209 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/03/13
08:25 PM

pinch off the fuel line into the fuel pump... use some needle nose vice grips.. or hold them...

attempt to start the car.. .. you will have to have your foot to the floor...

get it running at about 2500 to 3000 rpms...

keep it steady there...   when it starts to die...  release the pliers... so some fuel flows into the carb...  then pinch off the fuel line again.. until it starts to die again...

this allows the float to drop and the needle and seat to open fully..  the inrush of fuel thru it will usually clean the needle and seat out...

you could have debris in the needle and seat..

i have more...

but this is the way i quickly fix them...

sometimes it takes 3 or 4 times...  

bill513 bill513
New User | Posts: 15 | Joined: 12/12
Posted: 05/04/13
06:09 AM

Great,  thanks Wayne,  will try this today.  Is this something that could happen again while driving?  Should I replace the old (probably original,  has chevy bowtie  stamped on it) carburetor to be sure.  

waynep712222 waynep712222
User | Posts: 209 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/05/13
09:02 AM

install a NEW fuel injection type fuel filter before the pump...

disable the ignition system... so NO sparks can be created..

disconnect the fuel line at the carb... please use 2 wrenches..

extend the metal fuel line with some rubber fuel line into a clean clear plastic 2 liter bottle..

have somebody crank the engine for a timed 15 seconds..  while you observe the pulses of fuel into the bottle.. each pulse should be nice and full.... equal to the others...

this with the new fuel filter protecting the fuel pump inlet also flushes the fuel pump and line to hopefully block any more sediment from getting into the needle and seat..

the wrench sizes is 1" on the filter nut on the carb.. and either 9/16 or 5/8  flare nut wrench on the tubing nut on the fuel line..  

waynep712222 waynep712222
User | Posts: 209 | Joined: 03/13
Posted: 05/05/13
09:19 AM

as for replacing the carb.... its probably not the carb.. but debris in the fuel line or up from the tank...

these are easily rebuilt... if you read the instructions first.. before you take the carb apart...

here is one article that will give you a little info on the carb.. there should be more.. but i don't have them bookmarked..

don't do mods to yours... just read this for info only...

http://www.circletrack.com/enginetech/ctrp_1101_rochester_2g_carburetors/viewall.html

here is a multipart video on rebuilding the 2G rochester carb..

i have not listened to it yet... but i have heard others ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6RTf2yrGcA4


a secret...  magnets inside the fuel tank.. pull sediment to them.. keep it out of the fuel system..

and never use teflon tape on fuel fittings..  

bill513 bill513
New User | Posts: 15 | Joined: 12/12
Posted: 05/06/13
04:49 AM

Thank you Wayne,  very helpful.