I have a 73 F-100 Sportsman (no engine)rescued while it was on its way to the scrapper. Someone gave me a free 1975 351M that was sitting in the grass of a vacant lot. I got the engine running. The F-100 has a 3spd manual and originally had a 302. With the exception of bell housing, fly wheel, pressure plate, t/o bearing what other obstacles will be encountered? Any input or advice would be appreciated.Thanks!
I am a care giver & Ed is a municipal officer. We both buy, sell & consign antiques & collectibles part time. We have a 73 F-100, 69 442, TransAm & a 5.0 Fox Mustang. We collect and sell everything from 200 year old porcelain to 1915 Buick parts.
the 73 more than likely came with a point type ignition.. and the 75 has one of the duraspark ignition systems.. easily retrofitting duraspark ignition to the 73... and far better than points..a few things to check on any ford pickup...the bolt at the rear of the crossmember to the frame rail below the steering box.. that bolt has a 5/8 head and an 11/16 nut.. and can come loose.. causing the frame rail to rock and increase steering slop..the rivets that hold the front suspension i beam brackets to the cross member have worked their way loose.. this is checked by placing fingers and thumb on either side of the crossmember and bracket and have somebody rock the steering wheel. if the bracket shifts instead of being tightly attached.. you will have tire wear issues..obvious tie rod end and drag link end wear..king pin bushing wear.. axle pivot bushings.. radius arm bushings.. the forward spring hangers for the rear leaf springs can be bent.. look and see if the mounting screw for the forward spring eye is centered in the bracket.. hitting curbings going around corners or backing into a curb when parking can bend these.. easily replaced with dorman versions right from the parts store.. keeps the rear wheels tracking evenly between the slightly wider track of the fronts..what else... thats most of what it takes to keep a F100 on the road for 500K miles.. built ford tough.. if you don't have carpets and the floor mat is torn up..clean.. clean.. seat and door sill trim out and clean... roll on truck bed liner applied to the floor and allowed to dry.. you may also.. want to clean the outsides of the frame under the truck.. and the insides of the frame.. where the gap is between the cab and the bed.. rain water gets in there and rusts the frame rail.. cleaning.. and some roll on bed liner or some kind of automotive black paint.. i don't recall if they moved the gas tank out of the cab by 73..if you still have the gas tank in the cab.. you might want to take a muffler tube cutter or one of the muffler tube chain cutters.. and slice off several sizes of filler necks off later model cars.. so you can change to a screw in unleaded type of cap.. they seal better than the push in caps if you are going to run a locking cap.. please take a sharpie with you to the junk yard.. find the vin number of the car you took it off of.. so you can get a cap that will screw in.. there are slight diffences in thread diameter.. fuel filler hose is also available in most sizes.. even if you order an elbow instead of a 3 foot length to get just a few inches.. i am not saying that there is anything wrong with your truck.. these are just things that i know have gone wrong.i advise a friend with his 96 E250 with the last of the straight six motors.he topped 520,000 miles last week.. so he replaced the radius arm bushings. the ball joints and front rotors again.. he still loves it..take care it and will will outlast most other stuff on the road.. if you need more info.. i drop thru daily.. take some pictures.. post them to photobucket of the installation.. paste the photobucket links here..