Hello everyone, I am look for advice and information about towing capacity of a 60's f100 or f200.I am wanting to build a classic ford for towing a custom built 18' camping trailer that is built on a standard car hauler trailer weighing in at about 6000 lbs ( also includes 425 lb motorcycle ) I will be traveling the country for a few years and pulling my house with me.I plan on upgrading suspension, brakes, transmission and engine. Basically creating a modern highway rig that looks like something you drug out of the field.I would like to get at least 10 miles to the gallon and I think I'm going to put some kind of manual 5 speed in it.I have not picked out the truck yet. Still pondering long or short bed and 66-72Thanks for your helpHappy trucking
before selecting a 60s truck.. be sure to have a friend rock the steering wheel back and forth while you observe the steering box.. some have tremendous movement that can be fixed with tightening the crossmember to side rail bolt.. others have metal fatigue...please also check the frame areas directly under the back of the cab to front of bed area.. there is a LOT of rain water damage to that area.. its a shame.. i have the perfect truck for your adventure. but i don't know what my sister is going to do with it.. its a 70 F250 camper special long bed.. 360, granny gear 4 speed.. dana 60 / 4.56 gears. no power brakes no power steering.. this was my moms truck .. she passed on last month. i just don't know whats going to happen to it.. its up in far north west washington. already has a welded on class III receiver set up for towing monster air streams.. i would probably bolt 300 or 400 pounds of steel bar stock under the front of the frame rail behind the bumper. as last time i towed something with a excessive tongue weight. it got a little crazy.. but it was not my 32 foot trailer and i could not shift the contents to adjust the tongue weight and they had packed the arms on the load distributing hitch.. mom did a foam brush rustolem paint job on it.. so its not pretty.. if you are going to build a motor.. i have a cam grind in mind.. an H230 grind from american cam. i don't recall what the specs are.. you will really want a truck with front disc brakes.. since you are going to be using it for the long term.. please take your time with the rear drum brakes.. replace the wheel cylinders.. replace the spring and self adjusting kits.. turn or replace the drums.. replace the locking tab washer if its a bent ear type.. see the silicone sealer on the ends of the springs.. stops them from vibrating apart and falling under the brake shoes on wash board roads.. i have had to take a part too many that had this issue.. you will also want to remove the radiator.. with some 1/4" hardware cloth.. stretch it across the front and fold the ends over the mounting flanges. WHY??it protects the front of the radiator from rocks tossed by vehicles in front of you.. they go right thru the grill.. or under the bumper and nail the radiator tubes. why... i have been there.. 4:30 on the friday of a 3 day week end with a hole in the radiator and 900 miles in one direction and 300 in the other to go.. if your truck comes with a 4.11 or 4.56 gear set. there are 3.73 gear sets available. and you can also convert to a 30.5 to 34" tall rear tire.. in 16" only 12.5 x16.5 tires and larger are available in 16.5 inch sizing currently.. and any tire older than about 4 years old should not be trusted with any kind of load or a big trailer.. you might want to try several different sizes of rear tires.. or have 2 spares.. of a different size.. so if you get into the mountains.. you can switch back to the shorter tires for mountain driving. gives you better hill climbing .. and go back to the tall ones for long highways.. as for fuel economy.. you will want a pair of gauges.. a manifold vacuum gauge.. but also at least a narrow band air fuel ratio display... with a matching oxygen sensor screwed into the downpipes after the manifolds.. there are several circuits in carbs.. idle circuits where the fuel is controlled by the idle mixture screw..the idle transition circuit that is controlled by the idle feed restriction..the main circuit that is controlled by the main jet...during mid to high speed cruise. the engine runs on both the idle transition circuit and the main circuit.. during low speed cruise.. below about 1900 rpms.. the engine runs on just the idle transition circuit.. so if its not tuned perfectly.. you will get horrible fuel economy.. or have a flat spot that you have to use more throttle to get past.. you will also want to type hydroboost into the search terms above right.. then select source internet media.. so you search all the magazines.. there are 4 or 5 articles about using hydro boost power brake systems.. sometimes robbed from things like astro vans on various cars and trucks.. far superior power brakes.. since you are going to swap to disc brakes.. if you pick up reman calipers.. and you have the option of plastic pistons over the stainless steel versions. go plastic.. why.. because they work better going downhills.. the brake pads get hot.. the infrared reflects off the back of the caliper pistons and boils the fluid in the caliper.. leaving you without brakes.. the phenolic resin pistons don't transfer the heat anywhere near as quickly.. so the fluid never boils.. when it gets that hot.. it burns the outside of the piston off.. but the truck still stops.. lastly.. put in a kill switch.. a well hidden version.. i have met more than one ford and other truck owner that has had low lifes steal their truck as they are easy to cut into the harness and start.. hint.. forged ring bolts thru the floor on either side of the clutch pedal.. push the clutch pedal down with hand and slip lock thru .. let them try to drive it with the clutch stuck to the floor.. so many options.. if you go short bed.. plan on adding weight under the nose.. if you are really trick.. you will mount a pair of class 3 receiver tubes up there to mount it into.. so you can use a floor jack to slip it out easily.. or going to a steel plate front bumper.. like is found on tow trucks.. hint.. mount class III receiver tubes on the bottom of the front frame rails.. so you can mount or unmount the tow truck steel front bumper.. additional hint.. there are quiet type trailer hitches that have rubber bushings.
If you want a 5 speed look for a donor 351 Windsor motor out of a 80's or 90's pickup. The motor will bolt in with Ford mounts from a late 70's pickup. Might have to get creative with the transmission mount. Rob the front suspension from a late 70's F250 including the power steering and column. The column will have to be shortened about 2-3". The 70's rear end is about 4" wider than the 66 so stick with that in a F250. Ford changed the rear frame in 1967 to march the front track. A gear ratio that places you in the center of the engine power curve at 60mph in direct drive will derive the optimum mileage.A platform hitch with a load equalizing hitch and trailer brake control are a must. Set the brake control so the trailer braking force exceeds the truck so a light foot pressure will bring a fishtailing trailer under controlShortbeds in that vintage are rare.