It is a 59 235, I have been having serious issues with getting spark to come out of the coil I believe. I have tested with a test light and no fire is coming out.I have went threw 3 sets of points (one being the original) and one condenser (one original) and 3 coils (one being original) ... Still no fire. The coil is wired straight to the battery, I have the distributor down now and waiting on my ignitor II to come in. Is there anything I need to do or check before I am disapointed again? Also how do the armatures in the distributor work? What should they be doing, what should I look for? Lastly, when I do get it running would anyone happen to know what kind of power these engines can make? I know the performance market is limited, but what set ups have been tried and trued to make enough power to make it fesable to spend the money im going to fixing this one up or should I drop a small block into her? I can get a 400 pontiac for 400.. THATS A DOLLAR PER CUBIC INCH !!! lol let me know your imput!!
lets check a few things...do you have a TEST light???? or a digital volt meter????hook the test light clip to the positive side of the ignition coil.. shove the probe into something to ground it.. but position it so you cans see it from the drivers seat...turn the key on.. do you get a medium bright test light???crank the engine.. does the test light get brighter??? it should.. return the key to the run position.. the light should go back to a medium brightness..this tests the primary power to the ignition coil...and is an important test.. only takes a few minutes...~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~how does the ignition work.. the coil has 2 windings inside it.. the primary and the secondary...when you turn the key on.. the coil + gets powered.. the coil - is hooked to a condenser and the points..when the points are closed.. the circuit is complete.. there is a magnetic field created in the coil primary.. as the engine rotates the points OPEN.. at that time. the circuit is broken.. and the magnetic field collapses... it does so thru the secondary winding and creates a HIGH voltage spark that goes out thru the coil wire.. thru the center of the cap.. across the rotor.. jumps a gap to the closest terminal then down the spark plug wires to the spark plugs and then jumps the gap there to get to ground.. it will make a complete circuit back to the coil but that does not matter here.. so points closed.. circuit complete thru coil.. points open coil discharges...the condenser acts like a shock absorber. as the electrons have mass and inertia.. with a bad condenser or a loosely installed one.. you will have trouble getting the engine started .. do you have a dwell meter??? to check the actual time the points are closed verses their open time.. since you are going to install a pertronix ignitor.. there is no need to purchase a dwell meter.. if you have one already great.. check the dwell.. post what happens when you test the power supply to the positive side of the coil i will have more info later.. got to go now..
Okay, i performed the test with sad results. It got dimmer, however i do have it straight wired directly to the battery and just cranking with the foot starter switch. I just got the ignition switch fixed i had to drill out and replace the lock cylinder (didn't have a key for the old). Could me straight wiring it stop it from firing? I understand the new ignition systems better then I do the old. the pertronix system is now in, flamethrower coil and all. With this directions say I don't have to use a resister in order for it to work. In other words straight wiring should be fine correct?
pertronix can be wired directly... i have not seen pertronix instructions in 10 years.. i just slap them in when i do them.. set the timing and go.. i guess i should probably read instructions.. i gave up with some that started.. OPEN BOX.. you will need to have a timing light ready to adjust the timing if you can get it running.. i guess i will go off and download some pertronix instruction sheets..Ignitor COMMON QUESTIONS AND ANSWERSQ. What is the first thing I should check if the engine would not start?A. Make certain all wires are connected securely to the proper terminals.Q. The engine will not start or runs rough. Are there any tests that I can do?A. Yes, remove the red Ignitor™ wire from the coil positive terminal. Connect a jumper wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the red Ignitor™ wire. If the engine starts and runs well, you may have a low voltage problem. Remember this is just a test and not intended for permanent installation. Read “ How to correct a low voltage problem”Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to.Q. What type of coil can I use?A. The Ignitor™ is compatible only with a "points style" coil.Q. What happens if I leave the ignition switch on when the engine is notrunning?A. This can cause you coil to overheat, which may cause permanent damage to the coil and the Ignitor™.Q. May I modify the length of the Ignitor™ wires?A. Yes, you may cut the wires to any length your application may require. You may also add lengths of wire if needed (20 gauge wire). Please make sure all wire splice are clean and connections are secure.Q. Will the shift interrupter on an OMC stern drive boat work with the Ignitor™?A. The Ignitor is compatible with all OMC stern drive applications, when equipped with a "diode fix". If you purchased a kit that does not include the "diode fix" diagram, call our tech line.Q. How can I get additional help?A. Call our tech line for any further instructions or questions. You may alsologon to www.pertronix.com for the latest technical information