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1966 ford F-100 Carburetor replacement advice......

  
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1966 ford F-100 Carburetor replacement advice......

 
deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/28/14
04:22 PM

I have a '66 ford f-100 with a 351W in it. Previous owner put the 351w in the truck. I need to replace the Carb. The block #'s tell me it's a '74 cast block and the carb #'s tell me it's a '73 carb. I doubt it's the original Carb for the motor.  I'm a little naive on replacing the Carb. I assume as long as the replacement Carb fits the intake manifold then I'm ok.  It has a Motorcraft 2100 or 2500 Carb on it now. I was thinking I would replace it with a similar unit. Will any 2100 or 2150 Carb work as a replacement??

Thanks,
David  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/29/14
01:50 AM

hat is wrong with the carb.. that it needs replacing???

these are easily rebuilt.. a carb kit.. some basic tools and a can of brake cleaner... or something like a spray can of barryman B12 chemtool spray cleaner. you don't need to dip these if the engine has been running.. carb dip is nasty stuff anyway...

click thru the various images in this article.. there are several more..  and i have a few serious tips to really make it work...
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/engine/mump-1201-autolite-carburetor-rebuild/

please.. describe all your issues.. take pictures and upload them to photobucket so you can paste the links here. pictures really help.. i know fords really well..  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/29/14
02:01 AM

2100Idle Zps0085c49b

2100 Main Circuit Tubes Zps1339a90c

2100 Main Circuit Airbleeds Zpsacf38193

2100 Idle Feed Tube Zps2f7f253a

2100 Pump Discharge Nozzles Zps4e64a9df

2100Booster Idle Air Bleed Zps6af3cc05

2100 Idle Air Bleeds Zps96aeedd1

when you put it back on the truck.. please preset the throttle position to only barely expose the idle transition slots.. so it will idle only on the idle mixture ports.. not the idle transition slots..

Idle Transition Slots Setting Zps7bcc767a

please let us know what happens..

if you post the carb tag number.. or the number stamped into the side of the left front mounting foot... yes its lightly stamped but there.. i might be able to help.. i have an amazing amount of info on these.  

deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/29/14
02:40 PM

Wayne,
Thank you for the reply.  Here is some pics in my Photobucket account. Someone told me that if the number was stamped on the lower right or left, that I had the aweful VV carb (variable Venturi).  Mine is stamped lower left. The Carb backfires and only runs when i give it a lot of gas, the motor dies before it even gets to a decent low idle. Sounds like it's getting to much air. Not sure the linkage on the side where the Auto choke is may be working properly. I thought it is suppose to change positions every time the gas pedal is compressed fully??  Anyways, here's some pics for you.

Thanks,
david


link      http://s301.photobucket.com/user/ldsnack/library/Old%20ford?sort=3&page=1  

deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/29/14
02:41 PM

Wayne,
Thank you for the reply.  Here is some pics in my Photobucket account. Someone told me that if the number was stamped on the lower right or left, that I had the aweful VV carb (variable Venturi).  Mine is stamped lower left. The Carb backfires and only runs when i give it a lot of gas, the motor dies before it even gets to a decent low idle. Sounds like it's getting to much air. Not sure the linkage on the side where the Auto choke is may be working properly. I thought it is suppose to change positions every time the gas pedal is compressed fully??  Anyways, here's some pics for you.

Thanks,
david


link      http://s301.photobucket.com/user/ldsnack/library/Old%20ford?sort=3&page=1  

deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/29/14
02:42 PM

Wayne,
Thank you for the reply.  Here is some pics in my Photobucket account. Someone told me that if the number was stamped on the lower right or left, that I had the aweful VV carb (variable Venturi).  Mine is stamped lower left. The Carb backfires and only runs when i give it a lot of gas, the motor dies before it even gets to a decent low idle. Sounds like it's getting to much air. Not sure the linkage on the side where the Auto choke is may be working properly. I thought it is suppose to change positions every time the gas pedal is compressed fully??  Anyways, here's some pics for you.

Thanks,
david


link      http://s301.photobucket.com/user/ldsnack/library/Old%20ford?sort=3&page=1  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/29/14
03:53 PM

use this kit...

GP Sorensen/Carburetor Kit
1973 Ford Truck F100 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 5.0L 2BL OHV 8cyl
Part Number: 96-215
Alternate Part Number: 27-997A  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/29/14
04:01 PM

thats a 2100D carb..  1.21 " venturi...

022B Zps2800ac66

021B Zps3511b7c8

028 Zpsfae1d248

026 Zpse6fd16ea


that carb has already been rebuild by a professional as i can see the sticker..

i will look around later tonight and see if i can identify it by the stamping numbers.. but the kits listed above. will get you done..

please verify the passages are all open.. DO NOT MODIFY the opening sized nor do you want to reshape them by forcing wire thru.. but you will want to verify they are clean..

i will be back online late tonight.  pickup a kit.. a can of carb spray.. a fuel filter..  

deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/29/14
05:02 PM

Ok...  I'm willing to give it a go...   I still think it's not the original Carb for my motor. My motor is a '74 or later model.  Casting numbers for my block are D4AE-6015-AA2....   the carb is a 73' model. But I'm game for a rebuild try on the carb. $25-30 for a rebuild kit is cheap and worth a try.

Thanks,

david  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/29/14
08:27 PM

a HUGE HINT..

read the instructions several times first...

also.. before removing the float latching spring .. push finger on float lever to raise end of float to normal level.. use a scribe to make a mark in the fuel bowl to indicate the float level installation.. so you can put it back where it was..  

deastman deastman
New User | Posts: 8 | Joined: 05/14
Posted: 05/30/14
07:16 PM

I will.  Thanks for the great advice. I'll get it going. May have a few questions along the way.  Going to buy all new rubber hoses for the truck. plus, I just put a brand new gas tank in the truck. The other one was full of rust. There were chunks of rust in the old fuel filter. Going to replace the fuel lines also.

Thanks,

David  

wayne712222 wayne712222
User | Posts: 180 | Joined: 10/13
Posted: 05/31/14
09:25 AM

hint...    rust also comes from the gas station tanks.. as it comes probably from refinery pipes as a wild guess..


the HINT... toss at least one super magnets into the bottom of the new fuel tank.. out away from where the float arm might be stuck to the magnet at low fuel..

this will live forever in the bottom of the tank..  attracting more and more of anything that might get loose in your fuel tank...

does your fuel pump have a big CUP on one end.. there is a filter in there.. that you can replace..

use a fram GC20... or ac delco GF157 or many of the other brands.. look it up for a 79 caddy eldorado 350 gas engine.. they used that for many many many models..

if your fuel pump does not have a filter can..  install a 90 ford ranger fuel filter into the hose directly into the pump inlet.. its a 10 micron filter and your fuel pump and carb will love you for the clean fuel..   why that one. its available everywhere.. including big box stores..